RAGUSA
Ragusa
(258km from Ragusa; 68000 inhabitants; 502m a. s. l.; zip code 97100;
area code 0932) is the province’s capital city, interesting
for both its artistical and historical heritage. Set on a wide limestone
hill between two deep valleys (the Cava San Leonardo and the Cava
Santa Domenica), it is divided into two distinct areas: Ragusa Ibla
(the lower side) and Ragusa (the upper side), separated by the so-called
valle dei ponti (valley of the bridges), a deep valley that is crossed
by four successive bridges, among which that known as dei cappuccini
(of the Capuchins), dating from the 18th century, is especially
renowned. Its diverse architectonic features are evidence for an
intense seismic activity in past times. After the 1693’s earthquake
the residents settled on the site known as Ibla, that, today, with
its medieval layout and lovely baroque architecture, is a most attractive
historical centre and a major goal of tourists. The new quarters
developed on a more modern orthogonal grid, with large and versatile
streets.
HISTORY
Ragusa
Ibla was founded on the site of ancient Sikel town Hybla Herea,
of which remains have been found, such as rectangular burial niches
in the Gonfalone valley, along the road to Modica. Some of these
have been faithfully reconstructed within the Archaeological Museum
of Ragusa. Few centuries later, Ragusa was taken by the Greeks who
would largely influence all Sicily’s culture. A few necropolises
discovered in the surrounding territory (along Cartolillo, Cava
Pece, Cucinello and Tabuna districts) is all that remains of that
period. Hybla Herea maintained its independence until the Roman
invasion in the 3rd century BC, eventually becoming a Province of
the Empire. Under the Byzantine rule it changed its name to Hereusium
in Reusia. During that period the town, like many in Sicily, was
repeatedly raided by the Vandals, the Goths and the Visigoths. A
few tombs like that known as Trabacche in the Buttino’s valley
have survived of that age. In 848, the city had to surrender to
the Arabs and to accept hardest conditions. In 868, after some attempts
of rebellion that would be harshly put down, the city changed its
name to Rakkusa or Ragus, definitively accepting the foreign rule.
Two centuries of Arabian domination would bring about a remarkable
growth, the city becoming an outstanding cultural and economic centre,
as much as many other Arab dominions of the day.
In
the 11th century the Normans conquered Sicily; Geoffrey, Roger I’s
son, was proclaimed first Count of the newly born County of Ragusa.
The town was definitively named Ragusa, successively ruled by the
Swabian and the French Anjous.
A
revolt led by Giovanni Prefolio broken out in Ragusa on 5 April
1282, would finally liberate the city. Prefolio was first proclaimed
Governor and then Count of Ragusa. Joint to the neighboring County
of Modica, Ragusa was successively ruled by the Chiaramontes, the
Cabreras and the Henriquez. In April 1695, the old and the new Ragusas
were administratively and politically separated because of continuous
fights between the elites of the two sides. In 1703, local disputes
still persisting, the city was reunified.
Ever
since, Ragusa would share the same fate as the rest of Sicily.
The
“Treaty of Utrecht”, in 1713, ceded the Island to the
Savoy Kingdom, although the County remained a Spanish dominion.
Then it passed to the Austrian Hapsburg (1720) and to the Borbone’s
Kingdom of the Two Sicilies (1738). Following Garibaldi’s
exploit in 1860, and the subsequent Plebiscite, Sicily was assimilated
into the Kingdom of Italy. Fights and divisions between the two
Ragusas were to continue up to 1926, when the city became the capital
of a province of the Italian Kingdom (Italian Republic since 1948).
ECONOMY
The
presence of oil and hydrocarbons on its territory represent a major
resource for Ragusa’s economy. The earliest wells were drilled
in 1953. The agriculture, as in all Sicily, is still the main activity,
notably the hothouse cultivation and breeding, the latter related
to the production of world famous “caciocavallo” cheese,
that is still hand-made along with the ricotta and other food specialties
in the masseria (farm); honey, notably that of “satra”,
which is a bush growing on the plateaus, is also much renowned.
Factories for the processing of agricultural products are spread
all across the province.
Ragusa’s
craft production is as much renowned, notably copper and wrought-iron’s,
and embroidery.
The
local traditional products are promoted by festivals and events
able to draw people from Sicily and beyond. Among the religious
festivals a special mention goes to San Giorgio’s celebration.
On this occasion the church is all illuminated and decorated with
flowers as the statue of the Saint on horseback – which is
not very heavy – is carried shoulder-high by a group of worshippers
throughout Ibla streets. The statue is preceded by a silvered holy
ark containing the relics of the Saint.
Tour
of the town
The
tour of the town starts with the Basilica of San Giorgio, an impressive
specimen of Sicilian baroque. The church, erected in 1775 by Rosario
Gagliardi, well-known architect from Siracusa, has an elegant façade
with three tiers of columns and is flanked by a side-bay surmounted
by a volute. The stairway and the volute, though recently constructed,
were harmoniously adapted. A beautiful decorated mirror, representing
the Martyrdom of San Giorgio, by painter Vito D’Amore, adorns
the nave; the sacristy contains a marble ancona, sculptures of the
Gagini school, and the precious “treasure” of the Saint.
The
Chiesa di San Giuseppe, in Pola’s square, has a façade
very similar to San Giorgio’s, hence attributed to Gagliardi.
It houses precious stuccoes, paintings and several baroque pieces.
Its elliptical front, inside, is adorned with a nice portal, a baroque
bell-tower and a beautiful silvered 17th century statue of San Giuseppe.
The
Chiesa di Sant’Antonio (formerly Santa Maria La Nuova), on
Via Orfanotrofio, is accessed by a nice ogival portal, a remain
from the original Gothic construction, and, on the other side, by
a baroque portaletto (small portal). The sacristy portal also is
a remain of the original structure.
The
splendid Villa Comunale (public gardens) is situated at the far
end of Ragusa Ibla. Very well-mantained, it offers beautiful sights
of the mountain ranges and down over the Irminio valley. The Villa
hosts three churches at its inside: San Giorgio il Vecchio, San
Giacomo and the Capuchins.
The
Chiesa di San Giorgio il Vecchio (Saint George the Elder) has an
amazing Gothic-Norman doorway bearing a portray of Saint George
killing the dragon and the Aragon’s eagles. The church, dating
back to the Chiaramonte’s age, was erected towards the mid-1300s
and must have been very important and large, given its sumptuous,
albeit damaged, portal and dramatic sculptures inside.
The
Chiesa dei Cappuccini Vecchi (church of the old capuchins) has a
simple façade enriched with four parastas with Corinthian
capitals that support a neo-classic front with two small bells.
Inside, it has a truss roof and one of the most beautiful paintings
in Ragusa, a Triptych by Pietro Novelli, depicting the Virgin Mary
surrounded by angels and saints (one of them represents, self-portrayed,
the painter himself).
The
14th century Chiesa di San Giacomo, also inside the Villa, is better
known as the Church of the Crucifix, due to a wooden effigy to the
left of the main altar.
The
Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Scale, on Via 24 Maggio, was largely
rebuilt after the earthquake in 1693 and retains of the original
structure only the Gothic portal and the bell-tower. Inside, there
are remarkable Gothic-Renaissance arches and a 16th century terracotta
image of the virgin Mary, of the Gagini school. An elegant flight
of steps from the church leads to Ragusa Ibla.
There
stands the 18th century Chiesa di Santa Maria dell’Idria,
dated 1639, built at the behest of the Knights of Malta order. The
doorway bears, still visible, the Cross of the order; the altar,
inside, is sumptuously adorned with the order’s ornaments.
A bell-tower stands left of the church, ornamented with lovely floral
panels of majolica from Caltagirone.
The
Palazzo Cosentini and Palazzo Bertini sit nearby. The former is
the most typical of all the 18th century buildings in town, with
elegant balconies supported by ornamented corbels and sculptured
animals and masks typical of the Baroque Art. The Palazzo Bertini,
erected by the Florida family towards the end of the 18th century
and successively acquired by the Bertinis, a local aristocratic
family, also has masks on its façade. According to tradition,
these personify: the pauper, the noble and the merchant.
The
Cattedrale di San Giovanni – dedicated to Ragusa’s patron
saint – rising from the square of the same name, was built
between 1706 and 1760; it has a front elevation in Baroque style
with an imposing doorway flanked by a belfry. On the inside are
precious stuccoes and the lovely Canonical House.
The
Corso Italia street leads to Piazza del Carmine, where stands a
18th century Sanctuary of recent construction.
The
Iblean Archaeological Museum, on Via Natalelli, under the Ponte
Nuovo (the new bridge), is housed in the first floor of the Mediterraneo
hotel; it displays the archaeological finds from excavations in
the territory of Ragusa. The collection is topographically and chronologically
arranged. The first section displays relics ranging in date from
the Neolithic to the Bronze Age. The second, exclusively devoted
to material recovered in Kamarina, contains Necropolises’
equipment and material, artefacts, Hellenic and Roman ceramics.
The third section displays relics from the most ancient Sikel settlements.
Here, worth-mentioning is the material pertaining to the necropolises
of Monte Casaia, Castiglione and Ragusa Ibla. The fourth displays
documents referring to Greek sites, notably to excavations at Scornavacche,
and a faithfully reconstructed workshop of a ceramist. The fifth
section collects Roman and late-Roman’s specimens, mainly
from Kaukana and Santa Croce Camerina excavations, where floor mosaics
belonging to an early-Christian church were discovered.
The
earliest bridge in Ragusa, called Ponte Vecchio or Ponte dei Cappuccini,
above mentioned, was built at the behest of the Capuchin Friars,
who first understood the necessity of a bridge spanning the Gonfalone
valley. Designed by engineer Giarruso, this was inaugurated in 1835.
A
latomia – a rock-cut tomb – of the early-Christian Age
(4th century BC) was brought to light 2 kilometres away, in the
vicinity of limestone quarries.
The
Castello di Donnafugata, situated in proximity to Santa Croce Camerina,
about 20km from Ragusa is a major attraction for tourists. Thanks
to its scenery, it was the setting of many films. It derives its
name from an Arab place-name meaning ‘Fountain of Health’,
hence the Sicilian Ronnafuata. The present structure, built by Corrado
Arezzo, Baron of Donnafugata, dates back to the mid-1800s. The style,
because of the many refurbishments, is not clearly defined. Externally,
an elegant Venetian neo-gothic loggia dominates the central section
of the main façade. After notice to the municipality of Ragusa,
the guests are received in the first-floor rooms. They can enjoy
the traditional cuisine of the restaurant and the splendid eight-hectares
beautiful park surrounding the Villa, hosting a Neoclassic coffee-house
and an unusual labyrinth.
The
Duomo di San Giorgio is a precious example of the Sicilian Baroque.
Erected on the old Church of San Nicolò, it was destroyed
by the 1693 earthquake. The reconstruction was initiated in 1738
and completed in 1775. The design, whose project is still preciously
preserved, belongs to Rosario Gagliardi from Siracusa, a major author
of the post-quake reconstruction of the Noto Valley.
The
church has a nice stairway that is slightly asymmetric, as is the
square before it. Its eye-catching façade, with three storeys,
features a richly decorated main entrance and a Neoclassic dome
that was made by Carmelo Cutrano in 1820. The interior has a latin-cross
design with three naves and houses numerous works of art among which
several altar-pieces by Vito D’Anna are outstanding. The image
of Saint George on horseback and killing the dragon adorns both
the façade and the fence.
The
beautiful piazza before the church is surrounded by such striking
aristocratic palazzi as Palazzo Arezzi and Palazzo Donnafugata.
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Ragusa
Acate
Chiaramonte Gulfi
Comiso
Giarratana
Ispica
Modica
Monterosso Almo
Pozzallo
Santacroce Camerina
Scicli
Vittoria
Monti
Iblei
Cava D'Ispica
Castello di Donnafugata
Camarina
Casuzze
Cava d'Aliga
Donnalucata
Marina di Modica
Marina di Ragusa
Punta Secca
Punta Braccetto
Sampieri
Scoglitti
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